Godey's Magazine for November 1861

HEADDRESSES.

(See engravings, page 372.)

Fig. 1.—Front of headdress Fig. 1, October number.

Fig. 2.—The coronet is composed of black velvet, with three pearl or gold stars, a large one in the ceutre and a smaller one on either side. Two long white ostrich feathers, fastened in at the side of the coronet and crossing behind, complete this coiffure. It would be equally pretty made in pink or blue velvet, with feathers of the same color, the stars being made of pearl, studded with steel.

CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS, FOR NOVEMBER,

HOME AND WALKING DRESS.

The winter dress materials are fairly opened, and make a brilliant display upon the counters of Stewart's, Arnold's, Evans's, and other of our principal houses. There are fewer decided novelties than last year, but the bright shades of color are many of them new, which gives variety.

Plain meriuoes, cashmeres, and raousselines are quite behind the times; all these fabrics being printed, or brocaded, in small gay figures. Tho solid colors are of course imported, as they always will be, and chosen by a few ; but they are not the style of the day. We find American musselines greatly improved ; they range from eighteen to twenty-five cents a yard, and compete in style and color, though not In quality, with the French and German goods. We notice particularly "a line," or a set, as we ladies should say of these goods, a graceful leaf, printed clearly on a black ground, in all the prevailing colors—bright purple, green, etc. American chintzes have also improved ; the grounds are usually plain brown, coffee-colored, etc., with a bright, clear figure. Stripes in everything have gone by, what is called "a set figure" having taken its place. Even the expensive reps In woollen and woollen and silk, that last year wore all brocaded, are many of them printed in this style; the ground a dark, rich, decided color; the figure green, purple, Magenta, rose sublime, or any of these shades, toued with white and black.

The newest fabric is perhaps the foulard de laines, & cloth resembling alpaca, in glossiness of texture, and all wool; on it are reproduced the favorite foulard designs, chintz patterns, in very bright colors.

The variety of reps is infinite, from the cotton and woollen mixture selling at twenty-five cents a yard, to tbe richest finest silk and woollen, at a dollar eighty. One of the best styles in reps Is a diagonal cheque, the cheque raided from the body of the stuff, and having the effect of satin ; in the middle of each cheque or diamond Is a small bright figuro, as for instance, a black ground and cheque, with a Magenta or rose sublime figure; the effect is quite as handsome as if the material were a heavy brocaded silk, and it will be found far more serviceable. These goods have in a great measure taken the place of plain cashmeres and merinoes for street dresses, and, in fact, have superseded the showy silks so unsuitable for inclement weather.

The delicacy to which the art of printing has attained is fully shown on tbe fine cashmeres, merinoes, and mousfiolines of French manufacture. We have before us a specimen of one of the finest among Stewart's importation; the ground is maroon, a green leaf in tbe brightest of June tinting is carelessly thrown over the surface, contrasting with the same leaf reversed, showing its silver lining, as in the American poplar, etc. A tiny autumn leaf, in gray aud Magenta, Is added here and there to brighten its effect, and this is all, a fine artistic contrast to the gaudy, nondescript figures, stretching over the whole ground, often tho stylo of furniture chintz, which wore brought out a year or two since.

Plain poplins, in all colors, are about the only plain goods that will bo worn; a doep rich brown, maroon, aud a deep bright shade of mauve, aro the favorite winter colors; also Azurline blue, and Polish green, and a light shade of coffee-color, called by the French Havani. Plaids in poplin and woollen goods are used only for children's dress. The usual variety of all-wool plaids, which are manufactured with little variety from year to year, are to be found.

In making up, the gored or Gabrielle style, as we have before said, will be very popular for the materials we have named. Ribbons and bright-colored flat gimps are the most suitable trimmings for woollen goods; also ruffles, "on the double," of silk the shade of the brightest tint In the dress ; ruches of silk, plaited through the middle, and pinked on the edges will be also much worn, and plain bauds of silk singly, or in alternation with baud* of the stuff. Velvet ribbon and bauds of velvet are very suitable for reps, and other costly, weighty gouds. Several new gimps have appeared, which will be described more particularly in our next; also winter silks, furs, etc.

As every one is selecting winter wraps this month, we have made our usual reconnaissance at Brodie's for the benefit of our readers. First of all, there is a tendency to shorten the length of cloaks; all tho importations are much shorter than the American taste will at presoat admit; for, as we are told at this favorite establishment, it requires full six months to persuade the popular taste to change materially, no matter what designs rule in Parts. We find, also, from Mr. Brodie that the cloaks which havo plaitings at the back are most in favor, though there is so great a variety in shape that one can scazcely go amiss. The materials are velvet and cloth, the latter of black brown, or gray chiefly.

There are several new styles of ornament, the most tasteful oakleaves, vino-leaves and grapes, etc., cut out or rather stamped out in cloth, velvet, etc., and these are applied as poises. For instance, we may describe a velvet cloak made something in the old Raglan shape, but reaching to within nine inches of the hem of the dress, the sleeve large and loose, falling open so as to show a richly quilted lining in black satin. At the top of the sleeve is a passementerie ornament, a wreath of vine-leaves and clusters encircling the arm like a cap, a pat le of the same on each side of the front. This cloak has a novel effect, given by a thick cording of ^oW-colored satin all around and edging the sleeve.

A brown cloth cloak, with ornaments of knots and bows, cut or stamped from cloth, fastening the plaits behind and appearing on the shoulders. A plaiting of cloth edges the front on each side.

Gray wrap, very heavy tricot cloth, wide, loose sleeve with lappets of cloth, bound with purple, and fastened by large buttons of gray with a bright purple centre. A serpentine trimming, formed by a flat band of purple silk, to match the edging of the cloak, extends front the collar to the hem, with a button like those on the sleeve In each turn.

Black and white cloth wrap in the bournons style, edged by a box plaiting of broad velvet ribbon. The pelerine, which is hollowed up on the shoulder, forms a hood behind, caught by a broad bow of black velvet ribbon. The hood and pelerine edged by box plaited velvet ribbon.

Rich cloak, with wide gores of purple velvet let in. alternating with full breadths of black Lyons velvet rounded at the bottom. The deep banging sleeve has also its broad gore of purple velvet; these gores are richly embroidered in a loaf pattern; the black velveted breadths have a Grecian chain pattern in embroidery, and are each edged by sharp plaitings of velvet ribbon, set on the edge, as are the sleeves and the hem of the garment. A graceful bertha, In the fanchon shape, of costly guipure, on the back of the cloak.

Ample black velvet cloak, the hem apparently four Inches deep, headed by a line of white silk. The graceful pelerine Is almost in a hood shape, coming close to the throat In front and on the shoulders, deepen! jg to the waist line behind. The centre Is a band of velvet, edged by white silk, the upper and lower portion rich guipure lace.

Dark brown wrap of Astrachan cloth (shaggy), with lappels turning back in front, »igib*t (waistcoat fashion!.

Shawl-shaped black cloth cloak, drooping pointed sleeves, shawl-shaped pelerine. It is bound by two rows of black satin piping, an Inch apart, placed three inches above the hem of the garment, sleeves, etc.; i rich ornament in braid, the Egyptian coil, on the back of the sleeve and in each corner of the garment.

We learn from Mr. Myers, of Reynold's Bazaar, that the ruling shape for children's felt hats will be a modification of the shell-shapes and turbans so universal this summer. The shell-shape (the crown set down into the brim) has a square, or rather flat crown instead of the round one of the past season, which we think a great improvement. Black, brown, and gray felts and beavers will be trimmed with rich shades of velvet, moss green, rose sublime, Magenta, etc. ; the pompon feather being used chiefly instead of plumes, though the really good plume is always acceptable. The pompon feather is also much used in bonnets.

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