Sunday, December 2, 2012

Journal des Demoiselles for December 1862

Première toilette. — Robe de laine anglaise, garnie d'une bande de velours ou de soie. Veste écossaise, tricotée, pour mettre sous un paletot ou chez soi. — Chapeau de velours royal, à plumes. — Rotonde de drap.

Deuxième toilette. — Robe de foulard ou de soie; petit volant tuyauté; bande de velours, de moire ou de peluche. —. Chapeau de velours royal; la passe est formée par une écharpe de tulle blanc, drapée. Plumes blanches, retenues par des feuilles de dentelle noire; une plume retombe sur le front.


Toilette de jeune fille. — Robe en tarlatane blanche, avec semé de marguerites bleues; garnie de trois volants découpés de 5 centimètres, surmontés d'une ruche ; le même ornement se répète trois fois sur la jupe. Le corsage à taille ronde, garni de trois petits volants surmontés d'une ruche. La garniture du corsage forme berlhe ; manches courtes, garnies de petits volants. — Ceinture en taffetas bleu, nouée derrière. — Guirlande de marguerites bleues avec cœur en brillante.


Toilette de petit garçon. — Jupe en popeline écossaise; veste en velours bordée d'une passementerie; gilet blanc; col et sous-manches en nansouk; casquette écossaise, en velours.


Toilette de jeune femme. — Robe de moire antique
rayée. — Pardessus en velours, garni dans le bas et aux manches d'une fourrure en martre; la même fourrure forme pèlerine devant et derrière. — Chapeau de velours, orné dessus d'une plume et dessous d'une touffe de plume et velours.

Friday, November 2, 2012

Journal des Demoiselles for November 1862

Toilette de jeune femme. — Robe en taffetas double chaîne, garnie dans le bas d'un volant tuyauté, surmonté d'une guipure surtr.msparentblanc; la manche est également garnie d'une guipure sur transparent.
— Chapeau en velours épingle, orné de trois biais eD velours d d'une touffe de plumes, deux biais en velours sur le bavoltt. Dessous, nœuds en velours et blonde.

Toilette de petite fille. — Robe en popeline, ornée d'une b.mde en taffetas, bordée des deux côtés d'une ruche, corsage décolleté avec châles, ceinture anglaise.
— Manche et guimpe eu nansouk. — Collet ouaté pareil à la robe. — Chameau en velours orné de plumes.

Toilette de jeune fille. — Robe en reps. — Pardessus en drap velours. — Capote en taffetas à fond plissé en travers, bavolet en velours noir, chou en velours noir dessus; dessous nœuds de velours mélangés de petites fleurs.

Frank Leslie's Monthly Magazine for November 1862



Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Journal des Demoiselles for October 1862



Première toilette. — Mantelet Célme en velours noir, orné de guipure et passementerie. — Robe de taffetas double chaîne. — Chapeau en velours épinglé, orné dessus d'une plume, et dessous de feuilles en velours.

Frank Leslie's Monthly Magazine for October 1862



Saturday, September 8, 2012

Peterson's Magazine for September 1862

 
FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER
 Fig 1 - Carriage Dress of Purple Silk - The skirt is trimmed with two fluted ruffles, headed by a band of silk braided with black. The body is very close, and is covered by a Spanish jacket of the same material as the dress, and together with the sleeves is also heavily braided with black. The pointed belt corresponds with the jacket. Bonnet of white crepe, trimmed with white ostrich plumes and black velvet.
 
 Fig II -  Riding Habit of Blue Cashmere - The skirt is three eighths longer than an ordinary dress skirt. The body is made with a Hungarian basque. The sleeves are close to the wrist, but slashed about the middle of the arm, showing a white under sleeve. Straw hat, trimmed with white and black plumes.
 
Pin Cushion in Applique
 
 
Materials  - 1/4 yard of blue silk; 1 bunch of white opaque beads; 1 bunch of jet beads; some pieces of blue, black and white velvet. Cut the upper side of the cushion out of blue silk the proper size. The medallions are of black velvet, which must be cut very true, then slightly gummed on the under side, and then placed upon the silk at the corner, as seen in the design. The leaves in the center of medallions are of blue velvet to be put on in the same way. The Maltese cross in the center of the cushion is of white velvet, or if preferred, it may be done in white beads. The edges of the medallions, leaves, and the spaces between, are finished by sewing alternately one jet and one white bead very closely together, so that all the raw edges of the velvet may be neatly covered. The cross, if made of velvet, must be finished in the same way, only omiting the jet beads. Finish the cushion with a loop fringe of white and black beads. This design may be enlarged for a sofa cushion: any other combination of colors being substituted.
 
 
 
 
New Style for Dressing the Hair
 
 
 
Children's Fashions
 
 
Fig I - A little Girl of four or five, in a Blue Poplin. Frock decorated with braid. The body is plain with a plait on each side; the back is cut with side pieces. A bertha pointed both before and behind ornaments the body. The white puffed sleeve is surmounted by a pointed jockey. The skirt laps over from right to left under the bow of the sash. The small ruches on the body and skirt are made of silk ribbon.
 
 Fig 11 - Child of three Years Old. Frock of English quilting embroidered with black worsted in English stitch. This embroidery presents pointed tabs on the body, an insertion at the neck, a fret ornament on tho skirt, and insertions on the pockets and sleeves. These embroideries are enclosed between rows of black braid.
 
 Fig III - A Boy of nine or ten. A sailor's straw hat, an over coat of light cassimore with embroideries and black braid.
 
 
Irene Paletot
 
 
 
Pompadour Pelisse
 
 
Made of black silk. This garment consists of a flat shoulder piece to which the pelisse is sewed. 0n this piece are ruches of colored silk forming an almond. The ruche is braided with black. Another ruche, also of colored silk, borders the piece, the openings for the arms, and the edges of tho pelisse. A braided design on the ruches. A deep lace forms a berthe.The two corners at bottom are braided.
 
 
 
New Style Fall Bonnets
 
 


Sunday, September 2, 2012

Journal des Demoiselles for September 1862

Première toilette. — Robe de tarlatane blanche, à petit volant dans le bas, surmonté de sept rangs de velours noirs; une draperie en tarlatane est relevée de distance en distance par des agrafes de velours. La pèlerine est en guipure noire. — Chapeau canotier avec une rose devant; une longue plume tournant denière.

Deuxième toilette. — Robe de soie unie. Collet de soie ou de cachemire soutaché et garni de dentelle tiès-haute. — Chapeau de paille blanche; touffe de fleurs et de dentelle noire; bavolet double.

Toilette déjeune fille. — Robe de foulard de l'Inde, ornée d'un large bouillonné. — Corsage décolleté.— Manches arrondies et ceinture longue, garnies d'un bouillonné. — Pèlerine en mousseline bordée d'une bande festonnée et froncée. — Sous-manches en mousseline, poignet garni d'un coquillé festonné.


Toilette de petit garçon. — Blouse en popeline garnie de quatre velours noirs, séparés par un rang de boutons d'acier. — Manches à revers. — Ceinture en veloars. — Pantalon demi-long pareil à la blouse, ayant deux velours sur le côté, et huit on dix boutons d'acier. — Sous-manches en nansouk. — Col et manchettes en toile.


Toilette de jeune fille. — Robe en alpaga, deux ruches également en alpaga posées au-dessus de l'ourlet. — Corsage montant. — Manches à revers. — Collet pareil à la robe, garni de deux niches. — Chapeau de crin orné de violettes. — Sous-manches en organdi. — Col plissé.

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Journal des Demoiselles for August 1862

Toilette déjeune femme. — Robe. de tafielas, garnie de dtux volants à plis cieux, ornés d'une pe'ile guipure noire. — Pardessus en la lie tae pareil à la robe, garni d'une guipure noire. — Chameau de paille d'Italie, orné dessus et dessous de loutles ne fleurs etgrappes de raisin.

Toilette déjeune fille. — Robe eu tiffelas gris perle garnie de rubans de nuance un peu plus foncée. — Corsage avec lev rs en taffetas de même nu-mce.— Mmt'let en mousselme avec volant festonné. — Guimpe et sous-manches en mousselme. — Chameau en tulle à t>nd mou, avec toullen de fleurs et épis dessus et dessous.

To lette de petite fille. — R. be de piqué blanc soutaché en noir. — Corsage décolleté cai renient. — Manches courtes etberibe pareilles à la robe.—Guimpe plissée et manches en organdi.

Frank Leslie's Monthly Magazine for August 1862



Monday, July 16, 2012

Peterson's Magazine for July 1862





Fig I - Evening Dress of White Barege trimmed with two rows of black guipure lace. Bournouse of whito barege trimmed like tho dress.

Fig II - Evening Dress of Pink Grenadine. Tho skirt is trimmed with puffings of grenadine, lengthwiso of tho skirt, edged with narrow white blonde. Sleeve reaching to a little below the elbow, made quite wide. The body is pointed both back and front, and has a square trimming of puffed grenadine.



Louis XV Robe De Chambre



The Lucretia





The Cleopatra



Fig IX - Riding Hat of Straw bound round with black velvet deep in front trimmed with black velvet loops and black and white feathers.


Fig V - Fluted Mantilla from Benson's 310 Canal street Now York. A black silk scarf mantilla with deep square ends. Two plaited ruffles neatly pinked on either edge in scallops with a velvet ribbon run through each plait trims the bottom of the mantilla one row only ex tending up tho front and round the shoulders. This is one of the moat graceful shaped outer garments we have seen this season also the most dressy and stylish.


Fig VI - Summer Cloak. Our next from Benson's Is not as dressy as the mantilla but is most useful as a half dress and traveling cloak. Tho shape as seen by tho graving is peculiarly graceful particularly over the arms. It Is made of gray summer cloth bound round the bottom and up the front with black silk about three inches In depth ornamented with two rows of white stitching. The black silk round the neck is cut in a three pointed ornament on the back and on each shoulder and extends down part the front forming two like ornaments on either front. All aro stitched with white

Fig VII Bonnet from Mrs Cripps 312 Canal street New York. A white crape bonnet laid on the foundation plain. The left side Is trimmed with a broad white ribbon edged with lace formed in two plaits clasped by a Jet ornament. Tho ribbon extends down the side and two similar plaits are formed also fastened by a jet. The face trimmings are a full cluster of plum color and lilac flowers intermingled with white flowers and lace on the top and on either side a full ruche of blonde. Broad whito strings.

Fig VIII - Bonnet of Black Hair also from Mrs Cripps plain cape of white crape covered with a fall of black lace. The top of the bonnet is ornamented with a full cluster of violets roses and black currants the face trimmings are also a full cluster of the same kind of flowers intermingled with black lace. Broad whito strings.


CHILDREN'S FASHIONS
 Fig l - Spanish Dress of Gray India Silk for a litter Girl. It Is trimmed with rose colored silk and black lace. The body is made with lappeis from tho shoulder and passing down to tho waist and around it at the back. The body is cut open in front for a short distance and faced with pink silk showing a chemisette of white muslin. Pointed belt in front. Short sleeves cut open and turned back liko the upper part of the body and finished with a puffed muslin sleeve. Straw hat and white plume.

 Fig ii - Dress of Blue Delaine for a little Boy - The bottom is cut in Vandykes and edged with black velvet a narrower row of black velvet is put on a short distance above the edge. The sleeves, bertha, bolt and pockets are all trimmed with black velvet. The body is cut square in the neck and is finished by a white cambric tucker.

General Remarks - We give this month the two latest novelties in tho way of children's dresses but the Garibaldi style continues the most popular both for girls and small boys. Dresses of white Marseilles braided with black or very stylish and fashionable for children.



ESMERALDA HEAD DRESS
This beautiful head dress is composed of a roll of black velvet on a foundation of milinette stiffened with cap wire to keep it in place. On the front of the forehead are velvet loops with long gilt pendants. A knot of velvet confines the roll at the back of the head. This head dress is beautiful in black or scarlet velvet with gold pendants or in scarlet with black jet pendants. We have seen one exactly like the accompanying composed of a beautiful shade of blue velvet with the ornaments in gold wheat ears.


MOTHER'S DEPARTMENT
    Infant's Wardrobe - If we may judge from many letters received durng the last few months, the following list wiI1 not be uninteresting or useless to young wives and mothers elect:-
    Articles Required for a Baby's Layette - Twelve little shirts - six plainly trimmed, and six more elaborately trimmed; six rollers; eight long petticoats - four plain, and four with work and insertion at the bottom; six monthly gowns, variously trimmed; eight night gowns; eight robes - six would be found sufficient in many cases; twelve long pinafores for wearing over robes, when these are liked; three pairs of knitted woollen socks; six dozen diapers; half a dozen quilted bibs, trimmed or not according to taste; three day flannel petticoats, or blankets, as they are termed; three night ditto; four fine white flannel squares bound with flannel binding; four day squares, made to draw up at one corner to form a hood (these may be made scarlet, pink or blue, and may be embroidered, scalloped or merely bound); six squares of Welsh flannel, simply hemmed, for wearing over diapers.

Things Required for a Baby's Basket - A basket covered with muslin, muslinette, sprigged net or any pretty light material, to be made with a pocket on each side; one pin cushion; powder box and puff ; sponge; soft hair brush; scissors; needle and thread; flannel cap; flannel nursing apron; and if liked, a waterproof ditto; a diaper or linen bath towel.

 Things Required for a Baby's Berceaunette - Berceaunette and cover (this must be arranged according to taste and means, and ought, properly speaking, to match tho basket) two mattresses; one pillow, one under blanket; two upper ditto; two coverlids; four pairs of sheets; the upper one of each pair trimmed with frilling; four pillow cases, trimmed.

 Infant's Clothing for Out Door Wear - One hood; two caps; one clonk; flannels have been already mentioned; one white Shetland veil.