Arthur's Home Magazine Jan 1863

Music Hath Charms (woodcut)

 

 Winter Cloak

 

 

 

SIX NEW STYLE JACKETS
No 1 Cloth Zouavo jacket edged with military braid
No 2 A fine cloth or cashmere jacket beautifully braided and made to wear open or closed in front at the pleasure of the wearer
No 3 A rich Lyons velvet jacket a la Zouave. Made also in rich glace silk
No 4 A handsome specimen of a new style ornamenting jackets, just introduced, made in fine ribbed-cloth, rich velvet, and silk
No 5 The latest style of tight fitting shapes. This elegant jacket is peculiarly cut very different from the usual body jacket and fits in a superior manner. It has fewer seams and is easier made. Got up in all suitable materials
No 6 Chcmise-russe one of the happiest efforts to unite the useful and cheap with a novel and stylish appearance. It will quite supersede the Garibaldi jacket on which it is a great improvement. In cloth cashmere, silk and velvet.

Slipper Pattern

LADIES WORK BASKET
These articles allow great taste to be in fitting them up, and when well arranged form an elegant present, or a particularly suitable contribution to a fancy bazzar, so many which are held during the year for charitable purposes. To render the instructions perfectly clear, two illustrations are given to show the manner commencing and finishing this very article. The basket must be purchased and can be had of various shapes. The material is generally a rich colored satin, either blue, Magenta or green. The length of the top of the basket must be measured, and two strips of satin taken, one the depth of the basket, the other two inches deeper, will he required, as they are tight round the top but slightly gathered at the bottom, these two strips are laid together and divided into six by a row of stitching, these six divisions form the six pockets. In the front of each there is a lappet,  trimmed round with either quilled ribbon or gimp, and round the edge of the piece which falls over the rim of the basket a fringe must be added. All this part of the work is completed so that it is ready to slip over the basket requiring only to be fastened down between the pockets at the top and stitched down all round the bottom, any little irregularity being entirely hid by the circular pin cushion which must be formed to fit the bottom of the basket. For this purpose a round of card board must be taken well wadded and evenly which is to be covered with the same material being cut sufficiently large to be carried over the edge. This pincushion is then placed at the bottom of the basket and a quilling of ribbon or gimp carried round it. Between each of the pockets, there should be either a bow of ribbon with end, or a silk tassel, these greatly improve the effect. Sometimes a basket with a handle is selected; if so, it should be twisted round with a cord and finished with two tassels at the ends where it is fixed on, or a ribbon twisted round, and two bows instead of the tassels.

Peterson's Magazine for September 1862

 

FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER

 Fig 1 - Carriage Dress of Purple Silk - The skirt is trimmed with two fluted ruffles, headed by a band of silk braided with black. The body is very close, and is covered by a Spanish jacket of the same material as the dress, and together with the sleeves is also heavily braided with black. The pointed belt corresponds with the jacket. Bonnet of white crepe, trimmed with white ostrich plumes and black velvet.

 

 Fig II -  Riding Habit of Blue Cashmere - The skirt is three eighths longer than an ordinary dress skirt. The body is made with a Hungarian basque. The sleeves are close to the wrist, but slashed about the middle of the arm, showing a white under sleeve. Straw hat, trimmed with white and black plumes.

 

Pin Cushion in Applique

 

 

Materials  - 1/4 yard of blue silk; 1 bunch of white opaque beads; 1 bunch of jet beads; some pieces of blue, black and white velvet. Cut the upper side of the cushion out of blue silk the proper size. The medallions are of black velvet, which must be cut very true, then slightly gummed on the under side, and then placed upon the silk at the corner, as seen in the design. The leaves in the center of medallions are of blue velvet to be put on in the same way. The Maltese cross in the center of the cushion is of white velvet, or if preferred, it may be done in white beads. The edges of the medallions, leaves, and the spaces between, are finished by sewing alternately one jet and one white bead very closely together, so that all the raw edges of the velvet may be neatly covered. The cross, if made of velvet, must be finished in the same way, only omiting the jet beads. Finish the cushion with a loop fringe of white and black beads. This design may be enlarged for a sofa cushion: any other combination of colors being substituted.

 

 

 

 

New Style for Dressing the Hair

 

 

 

Children's Fashions

 

 

Fig I - A little Girl of four or five, in a Blue Poplin. Frock decorated with braid. The body is plain with a plait on each side; the back is cut with side pieces. A bertha pointed both before and behind ornaments the body. The white puffed sleeve is surmounted by a pointed jockey. The skirt laps over from right to left under the bow of the sash. The small ruches on the body and skirt are made of silk ribbon.

 

 Fig 11 - Child of three Years Old. Frock of English quilting embroidered with black worsted in English stitch. This embroidery presents pointed tabs on the body, an insertion at the neck, a fret ornament on tho skirt, and insertions on the pockets and sleeves. These embroideries are enclosed between rows of black braid.

 

 Fig III - A Boy of nine or ten. A sailor's straw hat, an over coat of light cassimore with embroideries and black braid.

 

 

Irene Paletot

 

 

 

Pompadour Pelisse

 

 

Made of black silk. This garment consists of a flat shoulder piece to which the pelisse is sewed. 0n this piece are ruches of colored silk forming an almond. The ruche is braided with black. Another ruche, also of colored silk, borders the piece, the openings for the arms, and the edges of tho pelisse. A braided design on the ruches. A deep lace forms a berthe.The two corners at bottom are braided.

 

 

 

New Style Fall Bonnets

 

 



Peterson's Magazine for March 1862

Figure I, Walking Dress of Stone colored Watered Silk. There is a quilling of black ribbon down the front of the dress and around the bottom. Large black silk buttons also ornament the front. The body is made open a short way down the front with lappels also trimmed with black ribbon, turned back. A plaited chemisette and worked collar are worn with this dress. Sleeves shaped to the arm and trimmed to match the rest of the dress. Bonnet of stone colored and white straw, striped, and trimmed with black ribbon and Pink flowers.

Figure II,  House Dress of Lilac Delaine. The skirt as well as the Zouave Jacket are braided in black, and a white cashmere vest is worn under the jacket, with a cashmere collar. Cap of guipure lace, trimmed with bows of lilac ribbon.

 The MARIANA OR POLONAISE DRESS Of Green SlLK, with one rather wide ruffle at the bottom. The front is ornamented with ruches of silk; and another ruche witch extends down the back to the waist, passes over the shoulders down the front on each side of the en-tablier trimming, and above the flounce. Pagoda sleeves open far up the arm, and trimmed to correspond with the skirt. White silk bonnet, ornamented with a green bird of Paradise.

 Lucia Dress or French Gray Silk. There is quilling of black silk extending from the shoulders down  the sides of the front and around the bottom of the dress. The front of the dress and sleeves are cut out in the shape seen in the engraving and bound with black silk.

Riding Habit of Dark Brown Cloth. The skirt should be of one yard and a quarter in length when hemmed. The body fits closely to the figure with square skirts behind. Coat sleeve fitting the arm loosely but closed at the wrist with a velvet cuff. Small linen collar and neck tie; brown Swedish gloves; low crowned hat and brown veil

Swiss Cape. This elegant novelty is made of clear white muslin, laid in small box plaits. The neck of the fichu is finished by a narrow ruche of tulle, between which runs a row of narrow black velvet. Up the front there is row of buttons. A band of black velvet passes across the shoulders in the manner of bretelles, narrowing as it descends to the waist, both in front and at the back. In front a bow and ends of black velvet, and at the back the waist a corresponding bow without ends.

Bonnet from Mrs Cripps, 312 Canal street New York, of lilac silk laid on the foundation plain, the left side ornamented with lace, arranged in fan shape intermingled with velvet. Pansies, with pendant balls tipped with steel, long green velvet leaves, transparent cape covered with a fall of broad white lace. Inside trimmings, a full flat bow of purple velvet on the top of the head, with a cluster of purple pansies on the left side; broad white strings.

Peterson's Magazine January 1862

Varieties In Embroidery

Lady's Petticoat Body or Jacket

In giving a pattern of this description it is impossible to suit everybody's figure but we have made the diagrams suitable for a middling sized person. Any slight alteration may very easily be made in the size of the waist without changing the cut of the pattern which may be made either larger or smaller according to the dimensions required. When the jacket is required very much larger each piece should be cut larger than the diagrams taking care however to preserve the exact proportions. The most durable and suitable material for bodies is twilled calico, which should be rather fine; longcloth is sometimes used, but it does not wear so well. The seams with the exception of the two under the arms, should be stitched on the right side, the top and bottom of the jacket corded, as well as the arm-holes and the bottom of the sleeves. The insertion and work which form the trimming should not be put on until the cording is completed and to make the insertion round the neck shapeable, a piece of narrow soft braid should be run in on the upper edge where the work is joined to it, so that it may easily be easily drawn in to the size required.

A false hem should also be put on inside the hem on the left side, in which six buttonholes should be made. This will be found a more tidy method than making the button holes in the jacket itself, the buttons being quite hidden as will be seen in our illustration. We must not omit to say that turnings must be allowed for in cutting out this jacket. We give above engravings of the front and back of this jacket and on the next page diagrams by which to cut a paper pattern: the reader understanding that the paper patterns will hive to be enlarged to the sizes marked on the diagrams

No 1 Front
No 2 Half of Back
No 3 Side Piece
No 4 Sleeve

As new subscribers may not know how to cut an enlarged pattern from these diagrams we will give the directions. First to enlarge No 1.

Take a piece of newspaper or brown paper whichever is most convenient making sure to have it large enough. Draw a straight line up it sixteen inches long then draw the curve at top for the shoulder twelve inches long and finish back to where you began in the same proportions. Do the backs, sleeves, and side piece in the same way.

Edging

Ornamental Bracket, Valence, Chair-Back, Etc.

Stitch In Knitting For Wool Jackets, Etc.

Pianoforte Candlestick Ornament

Bead Border For Mats

The Red Riding-Hood

This hood is the novelty of the season and while it is both pretty and becoming it is very simple and easily made. Take three quarters of a yard of scarlet sack flannel the finest and most brilliant color that can be procured. Cut enough off one side to make it perfectly square, round one corner as seen in the diagram then have it pinked all round in small scallops, which you will find will produce a very beautiful effect.

From B to B at about two inches from the edge sew a casing of narrow ribbon on the under side, also one diagonally from A to A. Run a narrow ribbon in the casings drawing the one from B to B to fit the face. Fasten it. The one from A to A is to bo drawn to suit the bead.

If preferred the hood may be lined with silk as far as the line A A. The point which represents the cape is better not lined.

Crochet Invalid's Slippers

Patterns In Embroidery

Toilet Pin-Cushion

Children's Fashions For January

Insertion

Sofa Cushion In Crochet

New Stitch For Knitting

Edgings and Handkerchief Borders

Drawing-Room Work-Basket

Name For Marking, Handkerchief Corner and Sprig

Peterson's November 1861