Peterson's Magazine for September 1862

 

FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER

 Fig 1 - Carriage Dress of Purple Silk - The skirt is trimmed with two fluted ruffles, headed by a band of silk braided with black. The body is very close, and is covered by a Spanish jacket of the same material as the dress, and together with the sleeves is also heavily braided with black. The pointed belt corresponds with the jacket. Bonnet of white crepe, trimmed with white ostrich plumes and black velvet.

 

 Fig II -  Riding Habit of Blue Cashmere - The skirt is three eighths longer than an ordinary dress skirt. The body is made with a Hungarian basque. The sleeves are close to the wrist, but slashed about the middle of the arm, showing a white under sleeve. Straw hat, trimmed with white and black plumes.

 

Pin Cushion in Applique

 

 

Materials  - 1/4 yard of blue silk; 1 bunch of white opaque beads; 1 bunch of jet beads; some pieces of blue, black and white velvet. Cut the upper side of the cushion out of blue silk the proper size. The medallions are of black velvet, which must be cut very true, then slightly gummed on the under side, and then placed upon the silk at the corner, as seen in the design. The leaves in the center of medallions are of blue velvet to be put on in the same way. The Maltese cross in the center of the cushion is of white velvet, or if preferred, it may be done in white beads. The edges of the medallions, leaves, and the spaces between, are finished by sewing alternately one jet and one white bead very closely together, so that all the raw edges of the velvet may be neatly covered. The cross, if made of velvet, must be finished in the same way, only omiting the jet beads. Finish the cushion with a loop fringe of white and black beads. This design may be enlarged for a sofa cushion: any other combination of colors being substituted.

 

 

 

 

New Style for Dressing the Hair

 

 

 

Children's Fashions

 

 

Fig I - A little Girl of four or five, in a Blue Poplin. Frock decorated with braid. The body is plain with a plait on each side; the back is cut with side pieces. A bertha pointed both before and behind ornaments the body. The white puffed sleeve is surmounted by a pointed jockey. The skirt laps over from right to left under the bow of the sash. The small ruches on the body and skirt are made of silk ribbon.

 

 Fig 11 - Child of three Years Old. Frock of English quilting embroidered with black worsted in English stitch. This embroidery presents pointed tabs on the body, an insertion at the neck, a fret ornament on tho skirt, and insertions on the pockets and sleeves. These embroideries are enclosed between rows of black braid.

 

 Fig III - A Boy of nine or ten. A sailor's straw hat, an over coat of light cassimore with embroideries and black braid.

 

 

Irene Paletot

 

 

 

Pompadour Pelisse

 

 

Made of black silk. This garment consists of a flat shoulder piece to which the pelisse is sewed. 0n this piece are ruches of colored silk forming an almond. The ruche is braided with black. Another ruche, also of colored silk, borders the piece, the openings for the arms, and the edges of tho pelisse. A braided design on the ruches. A deep lace forms a berthe.The two corners at bottom are braided.

 

 

 

New Style Fall Bonnets

 

 



Peterson's Magazine for July 1862

Fig I - Evening Dress of White Barege trimmed with two rows of black guipure lace. Bournouse of whito barege trimmed like tho dress.

Fig II - Evening Dress of Pink Grenadine. Tho skirt is trimmed with puffings of grenadine, lengthwiso of tho skirt, edged with narrow white blonde. Sleeve reaching to a little below the elbow, made quite wide. The body is pointed both back and front, and has a square trimming of puffed grenadine.

Louis XV Robe De Chambre

The Lucretia

The Cleopatra

Fig IX - Riding Hat of Straw bound round with black velvet deep in front trimmed with black velvet loops and black and white feathers.

Fig V - Fluted Mantilla from Benson's 310 Canal street Now York. A black silk scarf mantilla with deep square ends. Two plaited ruffles neatly pinked on either edge in scallops with a velvet ribbon run through each plait trims the bottom of the mantilla one row only ex tending up tho front and round the shoulders. This is one of the moat graceful shaped outer garments we have seen this season also the most dressy and stylish.

Fig VI - Summer Cloak. Our next from Benson's Is not as dressy as the mantilla but is most useful as a half dress and traveling cloak. Tho shape as seen by tho graving is peculiarly graceful particularly over the arms. It Is made of gray summer cloth bound round the bottom and up the front with black silk about three inches In depth ornamented with two rows of white stitching. The black silk round the neck is cut in a three pointed ornament on the back and on each shoulder and extends down part the front forming two like ornaments on either front. All aro stitched with white

Fig VII Bonnet from Mrs Cripps 312 Canal street New York. A white crape bonnet laid on the foundation plain. The left side Is trimmed with a broad white ribbon edged with lace formed in two plaits clasped by a Jet ornament. Tho ribbon extends down the side and two similar plaits are formed also fastened by a jet. The face trimmings are a full cluster of plum color and lilac flowers intermingled with white flowers and lace on the top and on either side a full ruche of blonde. Broad whito strings.

Fig VIII - Bonnet of Black Hair also from Mrs Cripps plain cape of white crape covered with a fall of black lace. The top of the bonnet is ornamented with a full cluster of violets roses and black currants the face trimmings are also a full cluster of the same kind of flowers intermingled with black lace. Broad whito strings.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS

 Fig l - Spanish Dress of Gray India Silk for a litter Girl. It Is trimmed with rose colored silk and black lace. The body is made with lappeis from tho shoulder and passing down to tho waist and around it at the back. The body is cut open in front for a short distance and faced with pink silk showing a chemisette of white muslin. Pointed belt in front. Short sleeves cut open and turned back liko the upper part of the body and finished with a puffed muslin sleeve. Straw hat and white plume.

 Fig ii - Dress of Blue Delaine for a little Boy - The bottom is cut in Vandykes and edged with black velvet a narrower row of black velvet is put on a short distance above the edge. The sleeves, bertha, bolt and pockets are all trimmed with black velvet. The body is cut square in the neck and is finished by a white cambric tucker.

General Remarks - We give this month the two latest novelties in tho way of children's dresses but the Garibaldi style continues the most popular both for girls and small boys. Dresses of white Marseilles braided with black or very stylish and fashionable for children.

ESMERALDA HEAD DRESS

This beautiful head dress is composed of a roll of black velvet on a foundation of milinette stiffened with cap wire to keep it in place. On the front of the forehead are velvet loops with long gilt pendants. A knot of velvet confines the roll at the back of the head. This head dress is beautiful in black or scarlet velvet with gold pendants or in scarlet with black jet pendants. We have seen one exactly like the accompanying composed of a beautiful shade of blue velvet with the ornaments in gold wheat ears.

MOTHER'S DEPARTMENT

    Infant's Wardrobe - If we may judge from many letters received durng the last few months, the following list wiI1 not be uninteresting or useless to young wives and mothers elect:-

    Articles Required for a Baby's Layette - Twelve little shirts - six plainly trimmed, and six more elaborately trimmed; six rollers; eight long petticoats - four plain, and four with work and insertion at the bottom; six monthly gowns, variously trimmed; eight night gowns; eight robes - six would be found sufficient in many cases; twelve long pinafores for wearing over robes, when these are liked; three pairs of knitted woollen socks; six dozen diapers; half a dozen quilted bibs, trimmed or not according to taste; three day flannel petticoats, or blankets, as they are termed; three night ditto; four fine white flannel squares bound with flannel binding; four day squares, made to draw up at one corner to form a hood (these may be made scarlet, pink or blue, and may be embroidered, scalloped or merely bound); six squares of Welsh flannel, simply hemmed, for wearing over diapers.

Things Required for a Baby's Basket - A basket covered with muslin, muslinette, sprigged net or any pretty light material, to be made with a pocket on each side; one pin cushion; powder box and puff ; sponge; soft hair brush; scissors; needle and thread; flannel cap; flannel nursing apron; and if liked, a waterproof ditto; a diaper or linen bath towel.

 Things Required for a Baby's Berceaunette - Berceaunette and cover (this must be arranged according to taste and means, and ought, properly speaking, to match tho basket) two mattresses; one pillow, one under blanket; two upper ditto; two coverlids; four pairs of sheets; the upper one of each pair trimmed with frilling; four pillow cases, trimmed.

 Infant's Clothing for Out Door Wear - One hood; two caps; one clonk; flannels have been already mentioned; one white Shetland veil.

Peterson's Magazine for June 1862

The Pinch Of Snuff

"We have rarely published a more graphic engraving than this."

FASHIONS FOR JUNE

Fig I - Out door Dress of Buff Pique, or Marseilles, for the country. It is trimmed with five rows of black velvet ribbons, and with black velvet buttons. The straw hat is trimmed with latticed work of black velvet around the brim and with buff and black feathers.

Fig II - House Dress of Pearl colored Grenadine. The skirt is trimmed with flounces. Abovo the lower four is a quilling of mauve ribbon; then there are three more flounces with another quilling of ribbon above them. The body is low in the neck with short sleeves, and over it is worn a white body, embroidered and trimmed with quillings of mauve ribbon. The sash is also trimmed to correspond with the body.

New Style of Silk Sontag

Black Silk Sontag - This useful article is made of black silk, edged with black guipure or Honlton lace. It is intended to wear under a shawl or sacque, when it may be necessary to throw either of them off the shoulders, and presents a much more dressy and elegant than a knit Sontag. For cold weather it may be slightly wadded.

Latest Style of Bonnets

 Latest Style of Saque

Misses Hat

Misses Hat from Genin's, 513 Broadway, New York, composed of fine white English straw, bell crown. Tho front Is of black velvet and bound all round with velvet; trimmings composed of loops of black and white velvet fastened with straw buttons. The right side is ornamented with a white ostrich plume. Strings of broad white ribbon, with bows at the ears looped with black velvet.

Boys Hat

Boy's Hat, also from Genin's. It is of white English straw, bell crown, with a slightly rolled brim piped with blue velvet. A band of blue velvet encircles the crown, and on the left side are two pearl and straw ornaments.

Latest Style of Sacque Mantle

Insertion

Chemise Yoke

 

The Eugenie

Fig IV - Home Dress of Pearl colored Silk. The in trimmed with rows of narrow black lace. A ceinture has long ends, edged with black lace, and is embroidered in pearl colored silk. In the upper parts of the ends are small pockets also embroidered.

The Princess Alise

Fig III - House Dress of Black Silk. The skirt is braided around the bottom and up the front in a Greek border put on in white braid; on each side of this braiding there is a black lace insertion over white silk. The ornaments down the front of the dress are of black lace, edged with white lace. A pointed Marie de Medici waist, which, as well as the small Zonave jacket, is also braided in white. An mider body of white plaited muslin has a small rufflo around the neck. A dress of this kind braided in purple or green is very beautiful.

Little Girl's Dress

Here is the link to the issue

Peterson's Magazine for March 1862

Figure I, Walking Dress of Stone colored Watered Silk. There is a quilling of black ribbon down the front of the dress and around the bottom. Large black silk buttons also ornament the front. The body is made open a short way down the front with lappels also trimmed with black ribbon, turned back. A plaited chemisette and worked collar are worn with this dress. Sleeves shaped to the arm and trimmed to match the rest of the dress. Bonnet of stone colored and white straw, striped, and trimmed with black ribbon and Pink flowers.

Figure II,  House Dress of Lilac Delaine. The skirt as well as the Zouave Jacket are braided in black, and a white cashmere vest is worn under the jacket, with a cashmere collar. Cap of guipure lace, trimmed with bows of lilac ribbon.

 The MARIANA OR POLONAISE DRESS Of Green SlLK, with one rather wide ruffle at the bottom. The front is ornamented with ruches of silk; and another ruche witch extends down the back to the waist, passes over the shoulders down the front on each side of the en-tablier trimming, and above the flounce. Pagoda sleeves open far up the arm, and trimmed to correspond with the skirt. White silk bonnet, ornamented with a green bird of Paradise.

 Lucia Dress or French Gray Silk. There is quilling of black silk extending from the shoulders down  the sides of the front and around the bottom of the dress. The front of the dress and sleeves are cut out in the shape seen in the engraving and bound with black silk.

Riding Habit of Dark Brown Cloth. The skirt should be of one yard and a quarter in length when hemmed. The body fits closely to the figure with square skirts behind. Coat sleeve fitting the arm loosely but closed at the wrist with a velvet cuff. Small linen collar and neck tie; brown Swedish gloves; low crowned hat and brown veil

Swiss Cape. This elegant novelty is made of clear white muslin, laid in small box plaits. The neck of the fichu is finished by a narrow ruche of tulle, between which runs a row of narrow black velvet. Up the front there is row of buttons. A band of black velvet passes across the shoulders in the manner of bretelles, narrowing as it descends to the waist, both in front and at the back. In front a bow and ends of black velvet, and at the back the waist a corresponding bow without ends.

Bonnet from Mrs Cripps, 312 Canal street New York, of lilac silk laid on the foundation plain, the left side ornamented with lace, arranged in fan shape intermingled with velvet. Pansies, with pendant balls tipped with steel, long green velvet leaves, transparent cape covered with a fall of broad white lace. Inside trimmings, a full flat bow of purple velvet on the top of the head, with a cluster of purple pansies on the left side; broad white strings.

Peterson's Magazine January 1862

Varieties In Embroidery

Lady's Petticoat Body or Jacket

In giving a pattern of this description it is impossible to suit everybody's figure but we have made the diagrams suitable for a middling sized person. Any slight alteration may very easily be made in the size of the waist without changing the cut of the pattern which may be made either larger or smaller according to the dimensions required. When the jacket is required very much larger each piece should be cut larger than the diagrams taking care however to preserve the exact proportions. The most durable and suitable material for bodies is twilled calico, which should be rather fine; longcloth is sometimes used, but it does not wear so well. The seams with the exception of the two under the arms, should be stitched on the right side, the top and bottom of the jacket corded, as well as the arm-holes and the bottom of the sleeves. The insertion and work which form the trimming should not be put on until the cording is completed and to make the insertion round the neck shapeable, a piece of narrow soft braid should be run in on the upper edge where the work is joined to it, so that it may easily be easily drawn in to the size required.

A false hem should also be put on inside the hem on the left side, in which six buttonholes should be made. This will be found a more tidy method than making the button holes in the jacket itself, the buttons being quite hidden as will be seen in our illustration. We must not omit to say that turnings must be allowed for in cutting out this jacket. We give above engravings of the front and back of this jacket and on the next page diagrams by which to cut a paper pattern: the reader understanding that the paper patterns will hive to be enlarged to the sizes marked on the diagrams

No 1 Front
No 2 Half of Back
No 3 Side Piece
No 4 Sleeve

As new subscribers may not know how to cut an enlarged pattern from these diagrams we will give the directions. First to enlarge No 1.

Take a piece of newspaper or brown paper whichever is most convenient making sure to have it large enough. Draw a straight line up it sixteen inches long then draw the curve at top for the shoulder twelve inches long and finish back to where you began in the same proportions. Do the backs, sleeves, and side piece in the same way.

Edging

Ornamental Bracket, Valence, Chair-Back, Etc.

Stitch In Knitting For Wool Jackets, Etc.

Pianoforte Candlestick Ornament

Bead Border For Mats

The Red Riding-Hood

This hood is the novelty of the season and while it is both pretty and becoming it is very simple and easily made. Take three quarters of a yard of scarlet sack flannel the finest and most brilliant color that can be procured. Cut enough off one side to make it perfectly square, round one corner as seen in the diagram then have it pinked all round in small scallops, which you will find will produce a very beautiful effect.

From B to B at about two inches from the edge sew a casing of narrow ribbon on the under side, also one diagonally from A to A. Run a narrow ribbon in the casings drawing the one from B to B to fit the face. Fasten it. The one from A to A is to bo drawn to suit the bead.

If preferred the hood may be lined with silk as far as the line A A. The point which represents the cape is better not lined.

Crochet Invalid's Slippers

Patterns In Embroidery

Toilet Pin-Cushion

Children's Fashions For January

Insertion

Sofa Cushion In Crochet

New Stitch For Knitting

Edgings and Handkerchief Borders

Drawing-Room Work-Basket

Name For Marking, Handkerchief Corner and Sprig